Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Minerals

"Maybelline Mineral Makeup ingredients":
Zinc Oxide, Polyethlene, Boron Nitride, Dimethicone, PTFE, Synthetic Wax, Acrylates Copolymer, Lauroyl Lysine, Cetyl Dimethicone, Aloe Barbadensis/Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trumethylsioxsilicate, Trisocetyl Citrate, Isopropyl Titanium Trisosterate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol Chamomilla Recutita Extract/Matricaria Flower Extract (+/- May Contain: Mica, Cl77891/Titanuim Dioxide, Cl77163 Bismuth Oxychloride, Cl77499, Cl77492, Cl77491/Iron Oxides, Cl77007/Ultramarines).
This makeup is orangey, clumpy (in container), has a many toxic ingredients (synthetic wax), made in China, and shares many bad reviews for how it wears (cakey, powdery, blotchy). 

"Purminerals":
Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Boron Nitride, Magnesium Silicate, Zinc Stearate, Bismuth Oxychloride, Water (Aqua), Niacinamide, Yeast Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Zinc Gluconate, Caffeine, Biotin, Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii), Tocopheryl Acetate, Laureth 4, Polysorbate 60, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides


Bare Minerals:

Bare Escentuals prides itself on making cosmetic products with natural ingredients that are free of chemicals and preservatives. Arguably the most popular cosmetic in the Bare Escentuals line is the Bare Minerals foundation. There are five basic ingredients in Bare Minerals foundation.

    Titanium Oxide

  1. Titanium oxide is used in pigmentation. The mineral has a brightening effect, and is often used in sunscreen products as it helps protect against damaging UV light.
  2. Zinc Oxide

  3. Zinc oxide is a white powder often used as a lightening agent. Zinc oxide is highly effective at blocking UV rays that damage skin. The mineral is also very water-resistant.
  4. Mica

  5. Mica is a finely ground mineral with reflective properties. Mica comes in a variety of colors and has a translucent quality when used in cosmetics.
  6. Iron Oxide

  7. Iron oxide has a signature red or rust color. The mineral has been used as a pigment in paints and cosmetics for centuries. The mineral is non-toxic and highly water-resistant.
  8. Bismuth Oxychloride*

  9. This mineral is found in many types of cosmetics. Bismuth oxychloride has a white pearly sheen that gives makeup a frosted or pearlescent glow.

*Bismuth is the by-product of lead and copper refining, as well as other metals to a smaller degree. Bismuth occurs very rarely in nature. It is on the periodic table of elements under the symbol Bi at atomic number 83. It is very heavy and chemically resembles arsenic and antimony. It has a whitish/iridescent hue and has a very high shine property to it. Of all the heavy metals it is the only non-toxic. Bimsuth is a carrier for fuel in nuclear reactors. Bismuth components are used in everything from detection work, to making acrylic fibers, to safety devices in fire detection and extinguishing items, soldering, magnets and medicine as well as cosmetics. Because it is a by-product of lead refining, bismuth oxychloride should be lead free when companies begin using it in their cosmetics.

Companies use this in their cosmetics because it is cheap to buy and is an inexpensive filler. It does have binding qualities, so the makeup will "stick" to your skin, so to speak. There are other products that are just as effective at adhesion, and are better for your skin. Because of its molecular make up, it is often viewed as shiny or pearlescent. It is often sold in these two varieties. This makes it highly refractive, which is something companies want. Refraction will camouflage fine lines, wrinkles and discolorations. If you use a brand with bismuth oxychloride you'll notice a shiny look after applying the makeup. Not like oiliness, but almost shimmery. That's the bismuth oxychloride.

It's a very heavy element, which makes it difficult for many people to wear. It has to be forced into the pores (hence the buffing technique) otherwise it is capable of sliding off the wearer's face. The heaviness can result in clogged pores or irritated skin. Bismuth oxychloride often feels silky and not rough when rubbed between the fingers. Mineral makeup companies that do not use it have a lighter feeling makeup that usually blends into the skin better and with less effort.

Its molecular makeup is a crystalline shape, which may be a cause of the itchiness some women get when they wear it. Many women experience noticeable itching when they sweat. Don't forget it is also kin to arsenic, chemically. Your body will reject things it does not like, and if you'll get sick from ingesting arsenic, it would make sense that your skin would get irritated from having arsenic forced into it.

So, if you find you're experiencing some problems with your current mineral makeup and it contains bismuth oxychloride, you may want to consider switching brands. Many women experience skin irritation when using mineral makeup and don't know why. It's likely that bismuth oxychloride is the reason.


MAKE YOUR OWN CUSTOM MAKEUP:D
Copied from a forum (http://www.acne.org/messageboard/Mineral-bad-skin-t241194.html) :

"I order from TKB trading or coastal scents (like TKB better)

recipe for buff:

3 Tablespoons of 5-6 micron size boron nitride

1 Tablespoon Silk Powder

1 Teaspoon silica powder

1/3 Teaspoon Zinc Oxide

1/3 Teaspoon Titanium Dioxide (I like the methicone treated)

1/4 Teaspoon brown iron oxide powder

1/8 teaspoon yellow iron oxide powder

1/8 teaspoon red iron oxide powder

Put all ingredients in a clean coffee grinder.

Grind by pressing button for 5 second intervals

Occasionally tap lid of grinder to settle powder

Occasionally invert grinder and tap upside down to settle powder

add oxides a few grains at a time to darken/change - about a 16th of teaspoon. Increase browns first, then yellow, then red.

as a rule, this will be really messy! Good Luck!


edit: I use red 541 (brick), flat pure brown oxide, and yellow #7749"
INGREDIENTS  I WILL USE... (cosmetic grade=PURIFIED)
Pigment and UV Protection:
-Titanium Oxide and Zinc Oxide(anti inflammatory)  are safe (...but could potentially be pore clogging).

Pigment 
-Yellow Iron Oxide
-Red Iron Oxide
-ultramarine blue

Moisturizer/Base/binding agent 
- Shea butter, jojoba oil, vitamin E, (emu oil?)

Protein additive for healthy skin
-Micronized Pearl Powder

Adhesion and shine
-serecite


-Fine gold mica
-Fine copper mica


GREAT SUPPLIERS:
Tkb Trading, Coastal Scents, Monave

http://www.pvsoap.com/recipe_loose_mineral_foundation.htm
http://www.diycosmetics.com/catalog/Color_Blending_Charts-58-1.html
AVOID: cornstarch, rice starch, talc, Bismuth Oxychloride

eyshadows require a combination of pigment, filler , wet binder, dry binder and slip enhancers. the combination of all these ingredients need high speed machines to force all the chemicals together


Fun fact:
Victorians abhorred makeup and associated its use with prostitutes and actresses (many considered them one and the same). Any visible hint of tampering with one's natural color would be looked upon with disdain. At that time, a respectable woman would use home-prepared face masks, most of which were based on foods such as oatmeal, honey, and egg yolk. For cleansing, rosewater or scented vinegars were used. As a beauty regimen, a woman would pluck her eyebrows, massage castor oil into her eyelashes, use rice powder to dust her nose, and buff her nails to a shine. Lipstick was not used, but clear pomade would be applied to add sheen. However some of these products contained a dye to discretely enhance natural lip color. For a healthy look, red beet juice would be rubbed into the cheeks, or the cheeks would be pinched (out of sight, of course). For bright eyes, a drop of lemon juice in each eye would do the trick. When makeup began to resurface, full makeup was still seen as sinful, although natural tones were accepted to give a healthy, pink-cheek look. 
 

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